A business card placed between the flywheel and module works quite well (the magnetic attraction even holds it in place).and is easy. Rotate it by hand when done to ensure there is no contact. HTH
I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!
Your engine doesn't have points. I suspect the black wire is a ground for the ignition. You can check this by taking a very small chunk out of the insulation and then using an ohmmeter to check and see if it is indeed grounded. If it is you probably need an ignition coil assy. It is triggered from the flywheel itself. Make sure your switch is ok and the wires going to it are ok.
Disconnect any and all kill wires going to the coil... if you still have no spark then it can ONLY be the coil... if this produces spark then you have a kill system problem or your flywheel has no magnetism... and this can be the only solution as you do not have points/condenser or things just went full derp
Specifications for your saw can be found here:
Chain Saw Collectors Corner
Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
Parts listing can be found here:
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
An index or business card is a good gap tool. Remove the plug, rotate until magnetic attraction pulls coil and card tight to flywheel, tighten the coil screws. Rotate flywheel until magnetic attraction eases, remove card, rotate a couple of revolutions and ensure nothing drags or contacts flywheel. HTH
the air gap should be .012", the gap you have it set at is to small.reset the gap and try it again.......hope this helps,let me know........