Spray some brake cleaner into the existing pad/caliper area FIRST to wash any brake dust away.(being careful of painted surfaces) Take a thin "putty knife" and GENTLY pry the inboard and outboard brake pads away from the brake rotor/disc as far as they will go. Then with a 12pt 1/4" socket, remove the 2 pad retention pins from the caliper's face and let the pads fall out of the caliper's body, being careful to take notice of the pads themselves (they are slightly different) Slide the new pads up into the caliper body one at a time. This will require a little force as there is a spring inside the caliper body. Then you can re-insert the retention pins and snug them down firmly (do not over tighten) Double check your work, use a falshlight if necessary. Make SURE the pads are in place and you have adequate brake pedal "pressure". The bleeding of the caliper might be necessary. If you are wary of this procedure, please have qualifed persons do this critical work.
Base gaskets leaks, rocker box gasket leaks.
Final drive belt wear
Final drive belt sprocket wear
Loose/worn steering head bearings
Check spokes if wheels have them
Check under seat for damage to frame/surrounding area from leaky battery
Check all turn signals/horn/brake lights, high/low beam, tires
Test drive bike
Check VIN for modification
Check VIN with local police to make sure not stolen
Make sure title is clear and transferable
I know a lot of guys switch to the metzler and the michlens and the do get longer wear, but you give up some handling.
the oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission in your RK. There are two drain plugs. The plug towards the front left of the pan is the oil drain plug. The other one is for the transmission.
Drain the oil, replace the filter, refill with three quarts of oil and you're ready to go. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is "FULL HOT", and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill.
Don't forget to service the transmission and the primary at their recommended intervals.