First thing I would try is some sea foam, you can get it pretty much at any auto parts store...put it in the tank per instructions on the bottle, if the carbs are gummed/dirty... seafoam is you best hope at getting them clean without pulling them.
If sea foam doesnt work, you'll have to yank the carbs, but before you do... pull the tank, set it backwards where the seat was, get about a two foot fuel line (air line works just fine) run it ti the tank and start the bike, take a can of starting fluid (WD 40 works too but stinks when it starts to burn off afterwards) and spray around the base of the outside of the carbs where the boots connect it to the intake, if the engibe revs, you have a leak...cracked boot probably.
If no leaks are detected... then yank the carbs, pull the bowl covers and start cleaning....also, while you have them off pull the slide covers off and check the diaphrams on the needle for rips or cracks as well.
Check/clean.. put everything back together... if it still isnt running right then I have no other suggestions... certainly sounds like an air/fuel problem... if were anything else choking it wouldn't make it better.
Run some Seafoam through the carbs. Should be available locally at a parts store. Mix with your gas according to directions. This will clean out the carbs, which sound like they are a little gummed up.
If the engine is the DOHC 16 valve engine inline 4, and has multiple carbs, then I have 2 suggestions for you, First thing I would take the carbs off, as a whole rail, and have them ultra-sonically cleaned at a shop, and the diaphragms checked in the tops. After that, you need to have the carbs synced while on the bike. I have a GSF600S and it was basically opposite your problem, it had a sputter in the low rpm range, and the carb syncing fixed it, and they honestly weren't that far off. The way those carbs feed fuel, if one is giving too much fuel then it will cause ur plugs to foul, or flood that cylinder, causing the issue. For the carb syncing I suggest building this tool, which I did for my bike.
It's a liquid column differential manometer, which very accurately and sensitively measures the vaccum on the different cylinders of the engine. The only other thing I can think of is your ECM, which controls the engine, and incorporates your rev limiter. These are pretty pricey, so I would do the steps above first.
Hi, Donquinton67 and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Dirty air filter
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
11. Old dead or bad fuel.
12. Faulty fuel pressure regulator
13. Pinholes in the in-tank plastic convoluted tubing from the pressure regulator to the quick disconnect check valve.
14. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
15. Throttle body controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
17. Clogged or faulty fuel injectors.
18. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
19. Faulty TPS, MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Weak or broken valve springs.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. The control module may be in limp mode.
24. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2001 v92c cutting out
02 04 VICTORY Service Manual 02 04 pdf
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Victory Motorcycles V92C Owner Manual
Replace the spark plug caps and try again. On Honda's the cap is often part of the wire (a dealer part) NGK makes some inexpensive plug caps about $5 each. They should OHM out to 5000 anything above or below and you need to replace them. This should fix the problem.