you need to check for a short if its not that then it could be your altinator or a regulator box
Fuse 2 is actually the fuse from the regulator to the battery (see schematic below) - so if it's blown then you are not charging the battery.
Put the correct fuse in - if it blows again, you may have a shorted regulator.
Unplug both connections to the regulator:
With your test meter set to 'ohms' check in turn between each of the three yellow wires in the 3-pin connector to both the red & blacks in the 4 pin connector (the two reds are already connected to each other, as are the two blacks). Also check between the reds & the blacks. None of these should readings be 'short' (zero ohms).
Inspect the wiring at the three-pin connector - if the bike's harness looks charred/burned that is a sign the regulator has shorted. There is possibility it could have taken the stator with it.
Incidentally, the cable that plugs into the three pin connector - that should be a replacement auxiliarry harness: the original was deemed too small gauge for the job & was replaced with the auxiliary one as a recall. You should find that cable is stand-alone from the main bike harness and you can follow it back to the stator output connection. At both ends you should find the connectors of the original harness that is 'laced' into the complete harness. If you do not find that auxiliary harness, you need to get it. You should be able to get it at no charge from Triumph if the records on your VIN show it was never supplied.
Common problem with poor quality parts, the regulator is the problem, the generator is working other wise you would not have fried the wiring, you answered your own question. someone telling porkies to get more money from unsuspecting client?
The regulator controls the voltage not the generator, the generator only supplys the voltage it cannot overcharge unless the regulator is not working properly, simple!
I am not sure that you want to make one, the electronic units feature reduced voltage when the battery becomes fully charged, and that directly leads to longer battery life!
unhook the nefative cable from the battery and start the bike by using another battery and then unhook the starting battery. Put a volt meter from the negative cable and then to the negative side of the battery. It should show around 14 volts if charging system is working ok.
Hi Jesseglenlea, and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Vacuum hose to fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, loose, corroded or broken battery terminal connections especially the "NEGATIVE" cable inside the harness at both ends.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP CKP and/or BAS).
11. Sticky or damaged valve or pushrod wrong length.
12. Primary cam sprocket spline sheared or missing spacer.
13. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below Good luck and have a nice day.
Honda Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals