First thing you need to do is determine why the compression in that cylinder is low. Four possible causes are 1. blown head gasket 2.bad valve(s) in the head 3. broken compression ring, piston ring land or burned piston. 4. rounded camshaft lobes
One other possibility is a fuel washed cylinder (from leaking injector)
You are going to have to remove that cylinder head and do a thorough internal inspection, possibly involving oil pan and piston removal.
Once the cause has been found you can proceed to make an appropriate repair. Or if the damage is beyond your ability, replace the engine with a used or new one.
There is no quick easy fix to restore compression.
burned valve is likely the culprit.... or bad rings.... hook air up to that cyclinder one at a time.... and listen where the air is escaping... be aware that the motor will rotate till the piston is at the bottom of it's rotation. if it's a burned valve you will have to remove the head and replace it but somewhat easier job then replacing the rings. darn almost forgot.... it can also be a blown head gasket.... same procedure but you might need a brush and some soap water to test for an air leak at the side of the head. when you are done spray some wd 40 on it to get the water off so the spark plugs do not arc.
Hello.I will be glad to help you out.
Choose which of the 3 buttons you wish to use, on the car.
Take the remote transmitter, depress the actuator button, and continue to hold it until advised to release.
Depress the button, on the car, of your choice, and hold it down until advised to release.
Hold the garage door actuator (while holding the actuator button down) above the car's 3 buttons.
Rotate the door transmitter until the red light above the 3 buttons starts to flash slowly.
Stop moving the remote around when the light flashes slow.
Within several seconds, the same light n the car will now flash rapidly.
Release the car's button, release the transmitter button.
Verify that the door now operates..
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.